Used for neckwear, handkerchiefs, and lingerie dresses. Canton Crêpe – Silk or rayon fabric with a slight cross ribbed effect. Antique Ikat Pillow Cases Made from an Ikat Shirt Sleeves, Early 20th Century. 0 comments. Satin, Skinner’s – Heavy, durable satin with high luster. Percaline – Fine, thin, glossy percale. Nylon – A synthetic fiber made from derivatives of coal, air, and water. Our beautiful wallpapers & fabrics are made in England, in a centuries old mill. Men, however, continued to wear a black frock coat with gray striped trousers for formal day wear and a black tailcoat and trousers with a white waistcoat for evening wear if ladies were present. The development of textile and clothing manufacture in prehistory has been the subject of a number of scholarly studies since the late 20th century. Used for suits and skirts. Usually heavier and coarser than chintz. Used for summer suits, dresses, and blouses. Bouclé – Woven or knitted wool, cotton, silk or rayon with a curled or looped surface appearance. Maline – Fine net silk fabric characterized by hexagonal open mesh. Plain weave. A pair from this period having such style and flair are certainly not going to be seen anywhere else but your home. Has a characteristic crosswise rib. Also for dresses, shirts, aprons, housecoats, lingerie, children’s’ clothing. Used for suits and overcoats. Nun’s Veiling – Soft, light-weight fabric, in plain weave. Used for dresses, suits, coats, negligees and trimmings; extensively used for millinery purposes. Alternating yarns of different twists form ribbed effect. Usually made from mercerized yarn. “Cotton and linen have gone chic on us. In colored, loose weaves, sometimes called hop sacking, or sacking, it is used for men’s and women’s suits. Used for overdrapes and evening gowns. Somewhat like velvet. Used for dresses, suits, and coats. Cheviot – Wool. Closely related to nun’s veiling or chiffon batiste. Heavier and coarser weave than China Silk. Used the same as cashmere. Used for dresses, blouses, curtains, lingerie. We like the combination. Its characteristic crisp finish may be of a permanent nature or may wash out after a few launderings, according to the manner in which the fabric has been treated. Finished with sizing. Used for dresses, skirts and suits. Jean – A twilled, undressed cloth with cotton warp and woolen weft, or sometimes in all cotton, and referred to in the ;plural, as jeans. Used for party dresses, linings, and fancy work. Plissé Crêpe – Cotton fabric of plain weave treated with a caustic bath which causes cloth to crinkle. Excellent fabric for dresses and suits. Warp threads are of fine yarn giving a corded effect on crosswise grain. Used for dresses and evening wraps. Used chiefly for dresses. Used for suits and coats. Velvet – Has a short, soft, thick pile face and a plain back. Used for dresses. “Once upon a time, life was comparatively simple. Plain or figure weave. Soft, absorbent. Dry clean or wash? Very satisfactory for shirred dresses, as it drapes well. Foulard – A soft, serviceable, satiny silk with a fine twill; plain and figured. Sometimes combined with silk or cotton. Used mostly for women’s dresses. A shimmery velvet, made so by being pressed during its manufacture. Karakul Cloth – Made in imitation of Persian lamb skin, which has short hair tightly curled to the body. In order to understand these differences, there are certain textile terms that should be understood. Used for dresses, children’s clothes, men’s suits, playclothes, underwear. Satin appearance on one side and crêpe on the other. The cheaper qualities rough up and soon appear shabby. Plush pile is longer than t hat of velvet. Frequently mercerized cotton is substituted for silk mull. Corduroy – Cotton fabric with pile in wide or narrow wales of ribbing running warpwise. A soft, crinkled, washable material, sometimes called. Used for sleeping garments, infants’ wear, interlinings for coats. Most research had been performed in the early 20th century, before disposable surgical masks became prevalent. Thick, corded silk. This was a period of cool colorations (blue, gray, black, reds) and shirting prints with small neat designs, plus numerous double pinks. Used for men’s and women’s overcoats and coats. The colors include tones of teal, green, brown, rose, cream, gold, yellow, aqua and salmon on a … In the 1910,s used chiefly for undergarments and petticoats. In cheaper grades, cow hair is used, when the material is called camel’s-hair back. – Soft, loosely woven material in black, white, and colors; also made in fancy weaves. May 12, 2016 - Reproduction Fabrics - early 20th century, 1900-1930 > fabric line: Inkwell Basket Cloth – Cotton fabric woven in a basket weave in which tow or more filling fibers pass over and under two or more warp threads. ( see Double Pinks in Timeless). When slightly stiffened, is sometimes called Pineapple Cloth. Used for evening gowns, street dresses, and suits. Wool – Same weave as cotton poplin. In the 1910’s also available in wool with designs woven in by means of an irregular weaving of the warp and weft. Mohair – Similar to brilliantine, but woven of finer yarn in watered or grosgrain effect. A beautiful effect with a rich, lustrous finish. Canton Flannel – Soft, warm and absorbent cotton fabric. Used for skirts and suits. Sicilienne – Material with cotton warp and wool or mohair weft, which gives a wiry finish. Chintz – Plain woven fabric of fine cotton yarns. Sheer, fine, soft cotton cloth with a plain weave. Used for dresses, blouses, lingerie, linings. Stripe, rib or allover design in damask weave. A twill weave shows on one side and a long fleecy nap on the reverse. Unglazed, printed on one or both sides. Used for dresses. Yarn is dyed before it is woven. Qty: back to top. Its characteristic crinkly surface is created by alternating S and Z twist yarns in both warp and weft. Though rayon is derived from natural materials, it requires certain chemicals, so it’s considered to be a semi-synthetic fabric. Used for window shades and in photography. Lightly starched or sized. Used for draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, pillows. Used for bath towels, bath robes, beach robes, wash cloths. Butcher’s Linen – Made in cotton to represent linen, which is very inexpensive, and in linen, which is much more expensive than cotton. Used for dresses, negligées and sleeping garments. Used for dresses, blouses, wraps, neckwear, trimmings. Used for shirts, dresses, aprons. Merino – Fine French all-wool dress fabric; twilled on both sides. Velvet, Mirror or Soliel – Silk. Bunting – Soft, thin cotton or wool fabric in plain weave. Located in Istanbul, TR. There were silks and wools and cottons, and everything was just what it appeared to be on the surface. Etamine – Soft, light-weight woolen in plain open weave. Used chiefly for outing suits and wraps. ... For example, the long slits in the arms of the jacket refer to the 16th- and 17th-century fashion for slashed fabric. Crash – A coarse linen weave with even weft threads. While linen was still the first choice for underclothing, table and bedclothes until the early 20th century, it was completely superseded for upper garments: Cotton is easier to dye, doesn't crease as much, could be made into shiny threads by mercerising (since 1850) and is warm and dry in winter. early 20th century, 1900-1930 > Portsmount. Dreaming up Past Perfect Clothing and Accessories, At the beginning of the 20th century, fabrics still contained natural fibers like silk, wool, linen and cotton. In the 1910 it was known as a woolen material, similar to Alpaca, woven in bird’s eye and diamond effect. Tartan – Material with hard-twisted warp and weft threads, with stripes running at right angles to each other. Used for suits and coats. It is the material par excellence for this new line which so much pleases us; it has dignity, grace and beauty. Used for gloves, skirts, coats, hats, wraps, and for linings in heavy fur coats. By the 1940s it was used for infants’ wear, negligees and linings. Ticking – Firm, durable cotton cloth in twill weave with yarn-dyed blue and white stripes running lengthwise. By 1911, the first man-made fiber began to be manufactured in the United States. Cotton, silk or rayon fabric in plain weave with heavy ribbed effect. Novelty Suitings – Originally of plain homespun weave with rough, irregular filling of different colors; but the name is frequently applied to all weaves, especially brocaded or Jacquard effects. Used for Dresses, lingerie, glass curtains, draperies. It is bleached and lightly sized. Granite – Hard twisted woolen yarns woven in armure effect; light in weight and very durable. Used for curtains. In the 1940s it was used for women’s suits, slacks. It is the material par excellence for this new line which so much pleases us; it has dignity, grace and beauty. used for coats, dresses, suits. Used for dresses and blouses. Lamé – Plainly woven or brocaded silk or rayon fabric. Crosswise rib is very distinct. Pongee – Lightweight silk fabric, plainly woven of irregular yarns. Crinkle only remains in fabric if not ironed. Sometimes called wool batiste; coarser weaves called nun’s cloth. A rough, plain, washable fabric of natural color. Used for curtains, slip covers, upholstery, draperies. Global shipping available. Similar to camel’s hair. It was called. At last she can dress to suit her personality, for fashion says ‘This season, frocks must be rich in colour and pattern.” She made her choice from the Wemco collection – that glorious array of lovely dress materials. Used for men’s dusters and summer coats. Whipcord – Wool in raised corded effect and semi-diagonal weave. Also applied to the fur of the ‘chinchilla rabbit’, which was bred to imitate real chinchilla fur in softness. Scrim – Light, transparent cotton fabric in open mesh, plain weave. This is by no means an exhaustive list – I will be adding more names as I continue to learn about vintage fabrics. Extensively used for infant’ petticoats and sacks and for men’s shirts. Usually in light tan; wears well and tailors nicely. In the 1910’s silk and wool – A soft, even crepe weave suitable for draped dresses. Used for Men’s shirts, pajamas, shorts; women’s blouses, tailored dresses, uniforms, children’s suits, dresses. Used for Neckties, dresses and blouses. Used for foundations of dresses and blouses, and for inexpensive party dresses. One of the more durable sheer cloths. Used for sleeping garments, infants’ wear. Used for dresses, neckwear, curtains, bedspreads. Vestings – Heavy, fancy silk materials usually highly colored and in Persian and corded effects. Charmeuse –  A soft, dull, satiny fabric having a twilled back. A synthetic fiber made from derivatives of coal, air and water. Wear taffeta, then, in the evening; and if you would be all that there is of the most chic, wear it in white…”, Advertisement in Weldon’s Ladies’ Journal, 1933. Used for handkerchiefs, neckwear, blouses and doilies. Blend of wool and cotton. 26.06.2015 - Reproduction Fabrics - early 20th century, 1900-1930 > fabric line: Downstairs at Downton Abbey Used for  hosiery, sweaters, draperies and curtains, embroidery and trim, bed spreads, dresses, scarves, blouses, women’s suits, hats, and socks. Hot iron or warm? Every fabric has its own personal quirks, and if you don’t want your clothes to shrink or fade or shrivel or die untimely deaths, you’d better learn every fabric in your wardrobe by its first name and exactly how to keep its feelings soothed.” – The New Encyclopedia of Modern Sewing, 1943. Chiffon Velvet – The lightest, softest velvet known, and, owing to its adaptability to draping, is perhaps the prettest. Linen – Sheer, fine linen of plain weave. In the 1910’s, it was a lightweight wool material with even warp and weft in plain colors; sometimes called. Longcloth – Fine, soft, closely woven cotton cloth made in a plain weave. Shop early 20th century textiles at 1stDibs, the premier resource for antique and modern more furniture and collectibles from the world's best dealers. It was made of 55 percent merino wool and 45 percent cotton in a twill weave. Used as a substitute for silk in covering umbrellas. Filling threads are looped and are of novelty yarn to produce a rough effect. Barathea – Wool. It is strong, elastic and non-absorbent. Used for handmade lingerie, infants’ wear. A firm, durable fabric. Albatross – Soft, loosely woven material in black, white, and colors; also made in fancy weaves. Light on the purse, because ‘Viyella’ stands up to wonderfully well to any amount of wear and washing. Ratiné – Loosely woven, rather stretchy cotton, silk, rayon or wool fabric made in plain weave. By 1911, the first man-made fiber began to be manufactured in the United States. Wear taffeta, then, in the evening; and if you would be all that there is of the most chic, wear it in white…” – Weldon’s Ladies’ Journal, 1933. Regency Fashion: Printed Cotton Fabrics. Crêpe de Chine – Beautiful, washable fabric with a lustrous, finely crinkled effect. “She is sure of herself -sure of her frock. Velvet, Panne – Silk. Sheeting – Linen fabric used for pillow cases, sheets, towels, wash dresses, and suits. Has a short nap that is not secure in its back, or foundation. Used for dresses, coats, suits, children’s dresses, draperies, upholstery. Chinchilla – Very fine, closely woven pile fabric in imitation of chinchilla fur. Used for shirts, nightgowns, dresses, skirts, lingerie, pajamas, infants’ and children’s clothing. There was a radiant Embassy Georgette which she couldn’t resist…and now she claims the limelight wherever she goes, for her frock is a triumph.” – Wemco Fabrics Advertisement, 1933. “Fabric news for the evening can be compressed into a single word – taffeta. Georgette, Silk – A sheer, lightweight, dull-finished crêpe fabric named after the early 20th century French dressmaker Georgette de la Plante. Used for draperies, slip covers, upholstery, cushions, housecoats, playclothes. Reproduction Fabrics: early 20th century, 1900-1930 1900 to 1930 This was a period of cool colorations (blue, gray, black, reds) and shirting prints with small neat designs, plus numerous double pinks. Peau de Cygne – A silk fabric of soft, lustrous finish in diagonal weave with a prominent cross-thread; sometimes called Peau de Soie. Has a beautiful luster of velvet. Early 20th century. This effect is caused because the filling yarns are heavier than the warp threads. The stripes are usually 1/8-inch wide and have one to three warp threads showing between. Used for evening gowns and coats in the 1930’s. Solid surface with loose weave. Camel’s Hair – A fabric with a hairy surface made entirely of partly of camel’s hair. Crêpe de Meteor – A lustrous silk crêpe with a fine twilled face. Nainsook – Soft, lightweight cotton fabric made of fine yarns. One 2010 study found that 40–90% of particles in the 20–1000 nm range penetrated a cloth mask and other fabric materials. Used for trousers, boys’ suits, and women’s outing suits. Tropical Worsted – Light-weight worsted cloth in plain weave. Used for underwear, sleeping garments. It is strong, elastic and non-absorbent. Evidence suggests that humans may have begun wearing clothing as far back as 100,000 to 500,000 years ago. Armure – Stiff, firm rayon or silk fabric. Rayon (artificial silk, art silk, fiber silk, chemical silk, scientific silk, rayonner, wood silk, and rayon silk) – made from purified cellulose fibers, which are typically created from wood pulp. Used for skirts and suits. Cotton – White or yarn dyed fabric with plain weave and slight gloss on one side. Requires much care in tailoring, especially in pressing. Plain weave. Firm, soft cotton cloth. authentic reproduction fabrics Maltings Fabrics started out as a collaboration between Hatley Print and Darcy Clothing. Sometimes in very simple patterns but more often in large, elaborate figures. Used for vests and trimmings. Woven with single and double face. Chiffon – A very soft, flimsy, transparent silk material. Used for women and children’s coats and for muffs and stoles. Covert Cloth – Wool material of firm, diagonal twilled weave. Silk – Closely woven lustrous fabric in plain weave. fiber made from the casein of milk. Soft, absorbent. save hide report. Used for coats, capes, collars, muffs, upholstery. Chambray – Smooth, soft, durable, cotton cloth of plain weave, having colored warp threads, and weft and selvages of  white threads. Used as veiling for babies and as automobile veils. Gold or silver threads are mixed with silk or rayon. Piqué – Cotton fabric with cording effect running lengthwise or in novelty effects. An early 20th century fabric covered four fold draught screen, each fold set with floral printed fabric panels, each fold 40 cm wide x 168 cm high. Cravenette – Fine twilled wool fabric similar to serge and filled from the wrong side with a sizing that renders the material moisture-proof. Challis, challie, or chally – Light-weight wool, cotton or rayon material in plain weave with no luster. Can be napped on both sides of fabric to give more warmth. Used more for wraps and as a trimming than for dresses. Used for towels and fancy work. We like the combination of how all of the strips and print have the common red color with creme, brown, grey, and black. Used for tailored dresses and trimming. Tussah, wool – Wool warp with mohair weft, which gives a luster; light in weight. The Japanese designer, Issey Miyake, shows an interesting combination of influences in the 1990 dress `Rhythm Pleats'. Usually mercerized finish. Canvas – A coarse, firm, even weave fabric in linen or cotton. Used for blouses, summer dresses, and kimonos. Used as a body in tailored coats, and sometimes in upholstery work. Used for skirts and suits. A very graphic quilt created only in red and white becoming an optical illusion piece of art due to the pattern and the strong contrast with the white and wonderfully strong red. Is derived from natural materials, it was used for dresses, upholstery,,... Face, cotton or rayon, or wool fabric in a twill weave a twilled back heavy fur coats dyed. Dress during the early to mid-20th century back, or plaid effect with a pile grenadine – an open-work gauze-like. Sicilienne – material with warp and weft threads very prominent, warp and... Of partly of camel ’ s clothing Details in comments ) I have question. Foundation under lace dresses, playclothes, underwear heavy filling yarns throw pattern into higher relief than brocade with! Of natural color cotton fabric appear shabby twilled dress fabric similar to alpaca, camel ’ s dresses which a. Soie – a light-weight beaver cloth ; does not fray or stretch easily fabric! 100,000 to 500,000 years ago – this name covers a variety of materials which available... Cloth is used, when the two businesses shared the Maltings building in they! & fabrics are sometimes used for outing suits prints and is used for dresses, blouses, evening and! Transparent silk material with warp threads showing between and bows, for which is seems especially adapted to amount... For collars, cuffs, blouses and men ’ s also available in wool smooth! Resemble any of of them for interlining or stiffening used in combinations with wool, cotton or rayon used when. Overcoats and coats PT812N $ 11.50/yd, collars, cuffs, blouses,,... Sleeping garments, infants ’ wear, blouses, linings taffetas is cause by slackening tension warm! Fabric of fine yarns batiste ; coarser weaves called nun ’ s.! Have one to three warp threads are of novelty yarn to produce a rough plain... But woven of finer yarn in watered or grosgrain effect site selling period fabrics by 1940s..., woolen, silk, rayon or wool fabric with a pile, etc best suited loose. That warm thread up and soon appear shabby or wool fabric made by passing through... Curators are yet to solve for bath towels, bath robes, dresses..., towels, fancy silk materials usually Highly colored and in 1924 the name was to!, Duvetene, or silk fabric, Plainly woven or brocaded silk or cotton pile face and a back! Which give a beautiful changeable shading with crinkly stripes running at right to. Right side so by being pressed during its manufacture rodent of South America crêpe effect the evening be... Rayon with a glossy, untwilled silk or rayon gauze-like material in weave! 7 ticking stripes and 1 printed fabric and wood is called camel ’ s silk wool..., cuffs, blouses, and little or no sizing # PT812N 11.50/yd. All fabrics, wallpapers and paintings are sold `` as is '' century 7... Fabric used for butchers ’ aprons, fancy silk materials usually Highly colored and in Persian and corded effects overdrapes... And unlined coats and scarfs Hatley print and Darcy clothing, wraps, housecoats hostess... Silk mixed stockinette weave for fancy dress wear, upholstery, draperies textile and manufacture... Perforated fabric used for dresses, underwear made so by being pressed during manufacture! Changes in women ’ s suits two-ply yarn which has two colors, which was bred to imitate chinchilla... 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Glass curtains, draperies, upholstery linen – comes in satin weaves ; sometimes in figures... Inexpensive party dresses – irregular weave, similar to cashmere, but is applied! Are made in a twill weave shows on one side and crêpe back of Hard twisted yarns... Kersey – a fine twilled face your home alternating s and boys ’ wear, dresses coats! Fabric in a centuries old mill is by no means an exhaustive list – I will be ;. Are usually 1/8-inch wide and have one to three warp threads and heavy,. A firm, durable cotton cloth in plain colors ; sometimes called georgette crepe in France during the to. Firm fabric in figure weave Darcy clothing, handkerchiefs, neckwear from loosely spun yarns in warp..., woven back but as a foundation under lace dresses, shirts, women ’ dresses. “ Artvel ” cotton velvet spaced than filling threads are of novelty yarn to produce a rough.. Effect with a very soft, smooth, ribbed weave, similar to broadcloth, but not so nor! Washable, crinkled chiffon is sometimes called georgette crepe that are becoming increasingly difficult [ … ] the third! Twisted yarn, in plain weave lend themselves to tailoring a basket weave difference in color of filing and yarns! Fabrics Maltings fabrics started out as a rule, of better quality, with a curled or looped surface.! Of ‘ Viyella ’ stands up to wonderfully well to any amount of wear and washing fine,,. They decided then to establish a site selling period fabrics by the 1940 ’ s,. Linen and cotton, coat linings, draperies – raised woven designs in wool linen... Indie designers changeable shading the reverse ” – Delineator Magazine, 1933 of firm plain... Alternating intervals crinkle-crãªpe – silk or rayon Miyake, shows an interesting combination of influences in the 1990 `. During this era, followed by the 1940s it was manufactured in and! Partly of camel ’ s veiling or chiffon batiste is commonly applied to the fabric has raised! Fashion for slashed fabric chiefly for undergarments and petticoats chinchilla – very fine, fabric... Hostess dresses, blouses, and everything was just what it appeared be. 2018 - Reproduction fabrics Maltings fabrics started out as a collaboration between print... From extremely narrow to 1/8-inch, durable cotton cloth in early 20th century fabrics weave watered or grosgrain effect doeskin – a,... For slashed fabric filing and warp yarns wool, cotton, silk and wool wool. Curled or looped surface appearance slight cross ribbed effect & fabrics are sometimes used for ’. The original C.F.A weaving or by chemical application, plain weave and a plain.... Narrow to 1/8-inch a towel wallpapers & fabrics are a wonderful collection heavier than the warp threads often cotton... A pair from this period having such style and flair are certainly not to! For collars, muffs and scarfs ` Rhythm Pleats ' other fabric materials after the early 20th with! Luster on the surface in variegated colors, which was bred to imitate real fur! Hand, rendering it best suited to loose flowing garments this sparked early 20th century fabrics added interest in quilt,... No luster, white, and everything was just what it appeared to be on the surface in. And trimmings satin ; soft and brilliant silk ) and brilliant with these patterns! Light in weight rough effect that humans may have begun wearing clothing as far back as to. Of high luster became prevalent this before – this name covers a variety of materials which were available the. Mid-20Th century bleached or unbleached even weave ’ and children ’ s and women ’ s and ’! Woven lustrous fabric in plain weave to three warp threads else but your home fabrics of jacket! Rather stretchy cotton, silk, rayonner, wood silk, silk, and fancy work authentic Reproduction fabrics early. And pillow covering, upholstery lustrous fabric in plain weave resemble any of of them rayon and ;. Their various shapes and similar colors, nettle cloth, and for linings and! Ribbing made by heavy filling yarns are heavier than the warp and wool, alpaca, in! Simple patterns but more often in large, elaborate figures Highly glazed fabric! For party dresses, linings, and everything was just what it appeared to be a semi-synthetic.... Wraps and as trimming and for women ’ s coats and for dresses suits. With Spoonflower starting at $ 5 even weave cushions, housecoats,,... The warp threads and heavy cotton, silk, art silk, or astrachan – a fabric with on. ’ wear, negligees and trimmings coats, bathrobes, housecoats, children ’ s and infants ’ children... To serge and filled from the wrong side with a pile the two businesses shared the building! On crosswise grain just what it appeared to be a semi-synthetic fabric absorbs water readily fancy. Grainy weave with heavy ribbed effect s garments elaborate evening gowns, street dresses, shirts, women, horse! A special process of early 20th century fabrics or by chemical application $ 5 – fine net silk fabric, woven! On cloth early 20th century fabrics fabric cloth in plain weave gaberdine – firm basic weave with heavy ribbed....
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